Herb Garden Plants

Archive for the ‘culinary’ Category

Herb Garden Plants – Lemon Verbena
Aloysia triphylla (Lippia citriodora) Verbenaceae

Appearance:
One of the lesser known but truly essential herb garden plants, lemon verbena commonly grows to about 1.5 to 2m tall with a wide spread. Our 30 year old lemon verbena now dwarfs the house and needs frequent trimming. The pale green leaves make a lovely showing and afford shade to smaller plants. Standing close to the plant will immediately reveal the origin of its name.

History:
Prized for centuries due to the pungent lemon like fragrance exuded by its leaves, lemon verbena is amongst the most fragrant of herb garden plants; it was brought from South America by the Spanish around the seventeenth century. Lemon verbena was given its name for its aroma, and it is a name that has persisted. One wonders if the citizens of South America call our lemon something like “verbena fruit” in return.

• Usage – everyday:
• Originally imported mainly for its oil, lemon verbena is prized for several other virtues:
• An aromatic addition to finger bowl water.
• The dried leaves retain their scent for a very long time and can be used in potpourri.
• Branches and fresh leaves of these herb garden plants can be put into airing cupboards and wardrobes to keep clothes and linen freshly aromatic.
• Crush lemon verbena leaves in almond oil makes an oil used for aromatherapy massage.
• Blending with other fragrant oils for handmade cosmetics.
• Add to bath water in a sachet for an aromatherapy experience.
• Hang branches in saunas to permeate the wood paneling with a wonderful fragrance.
• The leaves may be finely chopped for use in hot drinks, cakes, puddings and jellies.
• Chopped leaves work marvelously well sprinkled on fish while cooking; or add a small sprig to give bland foods like oatmeal and rice a lift.
• Lemon verbena shrubs attract butterflies to the garden and they often grown as herb garden plants for this purpose alone.

Usage – medicinal:
Leaves can be infused to make a gentle sedative tea to soothe chest and nose congestion, indigestion, flatulence, stomach cramps and nausea. Use about 10 leaves to a cup of boiling water, sweeten with honey and drink after meals.

Cultivation:
Lemon verbena loves sunshine as well as a bit of shelter. (A sunny corner is ideal.) These semi-hardy herb garden plants are grown mostly in greenhouses or indoors in colder climates. Protect outside plants with a light covering in regions susceptible to frost.

Ideal soil is sandy, tending to alkalinity and having good drainage. Lemon verbena thrives in poor soil.

To propagate, take summer cuttings with a small heel and trim off all but the topmost leaves; place these firmly into a moist sandy growing medium. Keep in a cool shaded place and keep soil slightly damp. Plant out into hessian or plastic bags when rooting has taken place and allow to grow until well established but not bursting at the seams. Plant out to between 1 and 2m. Regular pruning will encourage growth and produce a healthier plant.

Harvesting:
One of the least demanding herb garden plants, you can harvest lemon verbena leaves at will. Branches are a bit brittle and will benefit from trimming back to prevent breaking in high winds or from sheer weight.

Thymus species (Labiatae)

Appearance:
Common thyme herb garden plants reach mature growth in the shape of a 25 to 35cm high puffball, as opposed to the rest of the thyme clan which present in the form of a 75mm high(3inch) ground covering or low border, for which purpose they are used most often.

History:
Thyme is an essential addition to your arsenal of herb garden plants. Apart from the culinary virtues of thyme, it is also used for making a preservative using thymol an essential oil harboured in the thyme plant.

Common or garden thyme (T vulgaris) is the culinary star, but there is nothing common or vulgar about it. In fact, like the mint family, thyme has many disguises – notably lemon thyme and caraway thyme, which are used as decorative plants that serve a culinary function. Smell them to see why; the thyme aroma is distinctive.

Usage Culinary:
The strong aroma of these herb garden plants survives after preservation by drying or freezing.

Thyme is particularly useful for venison or other game as it’s flavour takes away much of the wild taste and survives a long session in the pot. Exercise caution when using thyme for normal dishes: although an essential element in bouquet garni, the strong flavour can overwhelm many dishes when used as a standalone herb in a recipe.

Thyme is traditionally used in:

• Cooked meats
• Stews
• Fish dishes (Lemon thyme)
• Vegetable soups
• Stuffing (Chicken, rolled and deboned pork, rolled beef)
• Terrines
• Sausages

Cultivation:
Well drained limey and dry soil in a sundrenched spot is what a typical thyme would ask for if herb garden plants could speak.

It is a good idea to plant thyme in pots so they may be moved indoors or to a sheltered spot in winter, particularly in a winter rainfall area which may bring on excessive dampness. Even in areas that experience a mild winter some shelter is advisable, even if it is just planting in a sheltered sunny corner of the garden. This may even involve planting thyme separately from your other herb garden plants.

Harvesting:
For best results harvest thyme prior to the plants flowering. Use a shaded warm area to hang sprigs up to dry. Alternately place on kitchen paper or clean cloth to dry out.

Propagation:
End cuttings taken from existing herb garden plants prior to Summer flowering grow well, or propagate from Spring-sown seed. Plant thyme seedlings out to 75mm (3 ins) when convenient to handle.

Artemisia dracanculus (Compositae)

Appearance:
Tarragon propogates runners that can fill the garden and should be watched carefully. It is an attractive plant that has sword-like yellow/green leaves topping a bush capable of reaching about 75 cm. An essential inclusion in your line-up of herb garden plants.

Usage Culinary:
Widely used in a variety of dishes, tarragon is best used freshly picked, as the distinctive flavour is captured and enhances companion ingredients while giving a zesty bite when added to almost any dish. A favourite herb for egg dishes, stews and quiches.

French tarragon is widely regarded as the primary culinary herb due to this enhancement of flavour in other ingredients and of course for its own wonderful flavour. Russian tarragon is less flavourful and thus less popular, but still enjoys wide usage.

The famous tarragon vinegar is made simply by immersing tarragon in a wine vinegar for 5 weeks or more with occasional turning and agitation of the container. Container should be carefully cleaned before using it in this way. Use fresh sprigs harvested early in the season.

Cultivation:
French tarragon or estragon may often be referred to as a royal herb, but are herb garden plants that can be problematic to grow. A warm climate produces the most successful growth but a damp climate inhibits flowering. Tarragon does not do well in warm and humid subtropical regions.

Plant in a sunny dry and well drained spot in the garden for best results. Be sure to protect tarragon and your other herb garden plants during a harsh winter by providing some sort of cover over a frame and applying a mulch to protect the roots.

Harvesting:
Trim the top in early fall by apicular pruning to get a better spring harvest and use the sprigs freshly picked off the plant.

Freeze tarragon by layering sprigs in a plastic container to preserve most of the flavour if the plant cannot be used fresh.

Rumex acetosa (Polygonaceae)

Appearance:
The type of domestic sorrel popular as herb garden plants is the broad leafed or garden sorrel which grows to a metre tall with substantial 100mm wide leaves, the topmost of which leaves tend to droop down from the crown of the plant. The domestic version of sorrel is larger and more succulent than the wild versions of the northern hemisphere – both North America and Europe.

Usage:
Wrap steak in a sorrel leaf in order to tenderise the meat or shred and crush into a steak marinade. Sorrel is a good substitute for vine leaves and has long been a popular base for French sorrel soup, made from both the wild and domestic versions.

Be careful of giving sorrel in any form to gout sufferers – the high acidity of these herb garden plants will almost certainly exacerbate their gout and they will not thank you for causing them pain.

Cultivation:
Sow sorrel annually in spring for both the best results and the best flavour – proceed by sowing in drills in a moist well composted soil. Sorrel seems to enjoy growing where it gets a little shade during the day, so try to position your sorrel bed accordingly.

Thin these strong growing herb garden plants to about 30cm apart as sorrel can get quite large and needs breathing space to produce its most succulent leaves for harvesting.

Pinch out the flower buds to avoid flowering and seeding as flavour is best prior to flowering.; alternatively remove self sown seedlings prior to their development. Established sorrel herb garden plants will develop deep roots and the older plants are not easy to thin out once they are entrenched.

During hot spells, keep a deep mulch layer around the stems of plants to keep the roots cool. Sorrel gets somewhat bitter when harvested during hot conditions.

Harvesting:
As the tangy flavour of the leaves is best prior to flowering; prune the flowers for a longer season of fresh tender sorrel leaves.

Sorrel is best harvested after a spell of cool weather when the cool roots help produce leaves of a much better flavour. This works well in even extremely hot regions.

Salvia officialanis (Labiatae)

Appearance:

Several types of common garden sage are popular; this whole family of herb garden plants is pretty hardy and can be harvested throughout the year in most regions. The rich oils of wide leaved sage varieties produce wonderful flavours and are prized for their culinary superiority.

Other popular sages prized for their culinary virtues are the narrow leaved sage and its golden-leaved cousin. The common red or purple sage(S.0. Purpurea)is used for decorative planting as is the more delicate and petite painted sage with its pink, green and pale cream variegated leaves.

Best known as an essential ingredient in onion and sage stuffing, sage is also used with pork, cheese, pies and as a mouth freshener.

Flavours range widely according to region and garden soils. Experiment in your garden to find the spot yielding the richest flavoured plants.

Burning sage dispelled odours in the home. Ales and light beers made with sage is supposed to lift the spirits, while a tea infused with sage relieves neuralgia and headaches.

History
As sage is reputedly the plant of eternal life it must have been highly desirable to Ponce de Leon as an alternative to the fabled fountain of youth he quested forth to find. Records from the 16th and 17th Century indicate that sages were regularly grown as herb garden plants for both medical and culinary purposes.

Cultivation
Given its mediterranean provenance, a sunny spot and soil inclined to alkalinity are the sage growers allies. Bushes grow about 40-90cms (1.3-5ft) square; replant in 5 year cycles for richer flavouring. Propagate from summer heel cuttings or by layering well-formed branches in spring and autumn (fall). Seed planting and propagation is very slow and somewhat unreliable. Pruning promotes young shoots with a strong flavour and overcomes the twiggy look that results from free growth.

As all herb garden plants grew wild and flourished at one time, you need to experiment to duplicate these naturally occurring conditions.

Harvesting
Harvest sage in clumps which should be dangled from a line to dry naturally in spring and summer. Store in suitable airtight containers.

An Italian Herb Garden

Elsewhere in these pages I wrote about an Italian herb garden and its primary residents of garlic, oregano, basil, parsley and rosemary. I have now learned that the article was only partly correct and that sometimes no amount of book learning prepares you for the real thing. Read on…….

Recently I sat down to some mid-morning espresso with 2 couples, both Italian and all 4 from different regions in Italy. The subject of a typical Italian herb garden was broached. Well, if you are Italian you will know what I mean when I say that suddenly there were four separate conversations all going staccato and fortissimo.

Special and vociferous mention was given by various parties to sage, thyme, bay, chervil and even horseradish (Leaves and roots) as being essentials in an Italian herb garden. Many more entered the fray but fell in the heat of battle. Some small concessions are suspected but not admitted for this passage of arms. Both tactics and strategy waxed and waned throughout the skirmish.

The most amazing thing was that they all agreed that the basic five above were all essential staples; amazing because from there the opinions varied and got louder until I called a truce.

Married for 38 and 35 years respectively, I thought the day of their marriages being ripped asunder was at hand. Not a chance, as it turned out, they were just having some fun

When things spun down back to normal, the previous status quo was soon resumed and another – and less important -  topic was being calmly pursued, I realised that something that I always knew had been reinforced:

• Italians are passionate about their food and their regions of origin.
• There are many more popular Italian herbs used in the typical Italian herb garden than most non-Italians are aware of.
• Don’t think that an altercation between an Italian couple has any real malice.
• Italians revel in argument and bring their own breed of passion and energy to the table.

By heck, I love these people. They are both down to earth and earthy. They bring with them the tastes, sounds and smells of Italy to any group, which immediately benefits by elevation through these wonderful influences and nuances. Italian cuisine and the traditional Italian herb garden is safe in these hands. Viva Italia!

And take my word for it – don’t ever try to tell an Italian what he or she should be growing in their Italian herb garden!

Rosmarinus officinalis (Labiatae)

Appearance:

These almost universally well loved herb garden plants have lush evergreen foliage, which releases the rosemary fragrance by gentle brushing. Its wonderful purple/blue flowers bloom early in mild climes and the display continues to early summer. It grows into a bushy 1.5m (5ft) plant if healthy and well situated.

Usage Medical:

• Rosemary was burned inside rooms as an air freshener
• Included in body cosmetics for its deodorant properties
• Mixed in tobacco to produce a fragrant aroma
• Grown as herb garden plants for inclusion in pot pourris
• Used as an infusion or tea for internal discombobulations
• An antiseptic and embrocation for wounds

Usage Culinary:

Many old style cooks used to aver that “The flavour is pronounced, exercise restraint when using in a dish.” Fortunately that is just an opinion, as there is nothing better than roast lamb slathered in rosemary. It is probably best with lamb, but there is no dish that cannot be improved with a bit of rosemary; all you need is to adjust quantities to the dish. Red meat, game and pork will use more than poultry or egg dishes. Try it and decide for yourself.

History:

Rosemary is reputed to be for remembrance and was stuck in the knapsack of many a deepwater sailor. Culpeper propounded almost a score of benefits and virtues and uses and declared ‘The Flowers and Conserve made of them are singular good comfort to the Heart’. Obviously another fan .

Cultivation:

Take cuttings of non-flowering woody shoots or layer established shoots in summer. Likes well drained soil, sun and shelter but will grow well even in harsh conditions. In very cold areas rosemary will do well in pots able to be moved into shelter. Rosemary seems to do well in 7 year cycles, after which it welcomes replanting elsewhere.

Harvesting:

The robustness of these herb garden plants allows frequent pruning for shaping and harvesting. Mild areas can enjoy year round harvesting.

Petroselinum crispum (Umbelliferae)

Appearance:
All forms of parsley are grown as annuals, although strictly speaking they are biennial plants. By removing the flower heads the productive life of the plants can be extended and the quality of the foliage flavour maintained.
The most familiar ones are the nicely curled-leaved sort (called French curly-leaved parsley in America) beloved of fishmongers as a garnish. The plainleaved kind, P.C. Neapolitanum called Italian plain-leaved parsley in America, has a more pronouced flavour and is preferred by some cooks, especially for long slow cooking.

Usage:
One only has to taste this iron and vitamin-rich plant once to discover it’s refreshing flavour. It deserves better than to be labelled a garnish – its fine flavour is exploited by knowing chefs to create magical results. Used globally in bouquet garni, sauce verte and sauce tartare, or as a tonic and diuretic in the form of a tea. Hamburg parsley – P.C.Tuberosum – has plain non-curly leaves – the roots are harvested as a winter crop and eaten as a vegetable.

History:
First known usage is recorded around the area of the Black Sea. Because of it’s slow germination, popular folklore has it that parsley seed goes nine times to the devil and back before germinating.

Cultivation:
Best sown in mid to late spring as a border in either the herb garden or a flower bed. Germination can be very slow – around six to eight weeks. Try soaking the seed overnight and damp the growing medium with boiled water before sowing. Thin the sprouts to about 30cms (1 ft) apart. In temperate regions parsley should be sown from early spring to autumn (fall).

Harvesting:
Trim the floral shoots as they develop to prevent drooping as well as for preserving the flavour. Parsley does well in containers; keep containers near the kitchen for easy access. Parsley does dry or freeze well; its fresh colour and leafy appeal as a garnish are lost by drying or freezing, although flavour is still good.

Mentha species (Labiatae)

Appearance: Numerous mint species are grown almost everywhere. Wild or cultivated forms all bear various local names. Their tendency to hybridise plus the fact that parochial names and appearance vary according to climate and location leads to some confusion in identification or collation of species information. Scientific analysis of essential oils has largely cleared up the identification and inter-relationship of these popular herbs, but local names both abound and persist. At one stage I grew a dozen different species of various appearance until sanity prevailed.

Spearmint or garden mint enjoys wide usage – it’s narrow pointed leaves, reach 30-90 cms (1-3 ft tall). If left to flower in midsummer, purple spikes appear well above the leaves. Apple mint has large, round, soft leaves and pink spikes growing up to 1 m (3 ft) high. The cream and green variegated form with leaves bordered and overlaid with cream is usually called pineapple mint; a good decorative garden plant retaining its attractive foliage throughout the summer. Ginger mint or scotch mint is another attractively leaved plant, particularly in the variegated form with golden variegation of the pointed leaves and its crisp even appearance and height makes a great herb border.

Usage: Most mints can be used for culinary purposes – one of the biggest – Bowles’s mint – has a reputation as a gourmet’s mint. It is a vigorous grower, easily attaining 1.5 m (5 ft), it’s broad leaves are covered with light coloured down. Peppermint is  widely used in culinary and medical applications; there are two varieties (Black and white) which grow to about 1 m (3% ft), the former with black/purple stems – both produce a sharp crisp oil. In the kitchen peppermint can be used to flavour fruit cups, sweets and puddings. tea is made from fresh or dried leaves.

A range of fragrance is provided by the same oil; the small chemical variations between one species and another are affected by season, soil and weather. Mint may be variously described as peppery, lemon flavoured or ginger flavoured.

History: Spearmint, the classic ingredient in Mint Juleps, was recorded as growing in Plymouth, Mass. in the early 1600’s by Elder William Brewster. It appears in Josselyn’s seed list but is absent from the Winthrop seed order placed in 1631. It was available locally and did not need to be imported.

Cultivation: All mints are vigorous growers given the right growing conditions. Most can be picked year round except in areas experiencing heavy frost or snow.

Mint is propagated by planting pieces of the rooted stem — about 5 cms (2 ins) deep in moist loamy soil, at almost any time during the growing season. Apple mint, sometimes called dryland mint in America, will tolerate less moist soil but all mints like sunlight. The plants need to be confined to their allotted space by enclosing their growing space with bricks, tiles  or  thick plastic strips.

Container growing requires regular watering unless the containers are sunk into the ground. All mints can be grown indoors but have a tendency to becoming leggy when grown like this. The exception is apple mint which can be a very attractive container plant.

A mint bed should be remade and relocated every three or four years to prevent mint rust disease.

Crowns of mint plants can be boxed or potted up in winter and taken to a warm greenhouse to force strong fresh shoots within three to four weeks.