Culinary

Italian Herb Garden – Are you Crazy!

October 14, 2009 |

Author peter

An Italian Herb Garden

Elsewhere in these pages I wrote about an Italian herb garden and its primary residents of garlic, oregano, basil, parsley and rosemary. I have now learned that the article was only partly correct and that sometimes no amount of book learning prepares you for the real thing. Read on…….

Recently I sat down to some mid-morning espresso with 2 couples, both Italian and all 4 from different regions in Italy. The subject of a typical Italian herb garden was broached. Well, if you are Italian you will know what I mean when I say that suddenly there were four separate conversations all going staccato and fortissimo.

Special and vociferous mention was given by various parties to sage, thyme, bay, chervil and even horseradish (Leaves and roots) as being essentials in an Italian herb garden. Many more entered the fray but fell in the heat of battle. Some small concessions are suspected but not admitted for this passage of arms. Both tactics and strategy waxed and waned throughout the skirmish.

The most amazing thing was that they all agreed that the basic five above were all essential staples; amazing because from there the opinions varied and got louder until I called a truce.

Married for 38 and 35 years respectively, I thought the day of their marriages being ripped asunder was at hand. Not a chance, as it turned out, they were just having some fun

When things spun down back to normal, the previous status quo was soon resumed and another – and less important - topic was being calmly pursued, I realised that something that I always knew had been reinforced:

Italians are passionate about their food and their regions of origin.
There are many more popular Italian herbs used in the typical Italian herb garden than most non-Italians are aware of.
Don’t think that an altercation between an Italian couple has any real malice.
Italians revel in argument and bring their own breed of passion and energy to the table.

By heck, I love these people. They are both down to earth and earthy. They bring with them the tastes, sounds and smells of Italy to any group, which immediately benefits by elevation through these wonderful influences and nuances. Italian cuisine and the traditional Italian herb garden is safe in these hands. Viva Italia!

And take my word for it – don’t ever try to tell an Italian what he or she should be growing in their Italian herb garden!

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Rosemary Herb for Sailor Men

October 9, 2009 |

Author peter

Rosmarinus officinalis (Labiatae)

Appearance:

The almost universally well loved rosemary herb has lush evergreen foliage, which releases the rosemary fragrance by gentle brushing. Its wonderful purple/blue flowers bloom early in mild climes and the display continues to early summer. It grows into a bushy 1.5m (5ft) plant if healthy and well situated.

Usage Medical:

Rosemary was burned inside rooms as an air freshener
Included in body cosmetics for its deodorant properties
Mixed in tobacco to produce a fragrant aroma
Grown as herb garden plants for inclusion in pot pourris
Used as an infusion or tea for internal discombobulations
An antiseptic and embrocation for wounds

Usage Culinary:

Many old style cooks used to aver that “The flavour is pronounced, exercise restraint when using in a dish.” Fortunately that is just an opinion, as there is nothing better than roast lamb slathered in rosemary. It is probably best with lamb, but there is no dish that cannot be improved with a bit of rosemary; all you need is to adjust quantities to the dish. Red meat, game and pork will use more than poultry or egg dishes. Try it and decide for yourself.

See our fantastic slow roast greek lamb recipe.

History:

Rosemary is reputed to be for remembrance and was stuck in the knapsack of many a deepwater sailor. Culpeper propounded almost a score of benefits and virtues and uses and declared ‘The Flowers and Conserve made of them are singular good comfort to the Heart’. Obviously another fan .

Cultivation:

Take cuttings of non-flowering woody shoots or layer established shoots in summer. Likes well drained soil, sun and shelter but will grow well even in harsh conditions. In very cold areas rosemary will do well in pots able to be moved into shelter. Rosemary seems to do well in 7 year cycles, after which it welcomes replanting elsewhere.

Harvesting:

The robustness of the rosemary herb allows frequent pruning for shaping and harvesting. Mild areas can enjoy year round harvesting.

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Tags: herb garden plants, Roast Lamb, rosemary, Rosemary Herb |

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Herb Garden Plants – Parsley

October 9, 2009 |

Author peter

Petroselinum crispum (Umbelliferae)

Appearance:
All forms of parsley are grown as annuals, although strictly speaking they are biennial plants. By removing the flower heads the productive life of the plants can be extended and the quality of the foliage flavour maintained.
The most familiar ones are the nicely curled-leaved sort (called French curly-leaved parsley in America) beloved of fishmongers as a garnish. The plainleaved kind, P.C. Neapolitanum called Italian plain-leaved parsley in America, has a more pronouced flavour and is preferred by some cooks, especially for long slow cooking.

Usage:
One only has to taste this iron and vitamin-rich plant once to discover it’s refreshing flavour. It deserves better than to be labelled a garnish – its fine flavour is exploited by knowing chefs to create magical results. Used globally in bouquet garni, sauce verte and sauce tartare, or as a tonic and diuretic in the form of a tea. Hamburg parsley – P.C.Tuberosum – has plain non-curly leaves – the roots are harvested as a winter crop and eaten as a vegetable.

History:
First known usage is recorded around the area of the Black Sea. Because of it’s slow germination, popular folklore has it that parsley seed goes nine times to the devil and back before germinating.

Cultivation:
Best sown in mid to late spring as a border in either the herb garden or a flower bed. Germination can be very slow – around six to eight weeks. Try soaking the seed overnight and damp the growing medium with boiled water before sowing. Thin the sprouts to about 30cms (1 ft) apart. In temperate regions parsley should be sown from early spring to autumn (fall).

Harvesting:
Trim the floral shoots as they develop to prevent drooping as well as for preserving the flavour. Parsley does well in containers; keep containers near the kitchen for easy access. Parsley does dry or freeze well; its fresh colour and leafy appeal as a garnish are lost by drying or freezing, although flavour is still good.

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Herb Garden Plants – Mint

September 27, 2009 |

Author peter

Mentha species (Labiatae)

Appearance: Numerous mint species are grown almost everywhere. Wild or cultivated forms all bear various local names. Their tendency to hybridise plus the fact that parochial names and appearance vary according to climate and location leads to some confusion in identification or collation of species information. Scientific analysis of essential oils has largely cleared up the identification and inter-relationship of these popular herbs, but local names both abound and persist. At one stage I grew a dozen different species of various appearance until sanity prevailed.

Spearmint or garden mint enjoys wide usage – it’s narrow pointed leaves, reach 30-90 cms (1-3 ft tall). If left to flower in midsummer, purple spikes appear well above the leaves. Apple mint has large, round, soft leaves and pink spikes growing up to 1 m (3 ft) high. The cream and green variegated form with leaves bordered and overlaid with cream is usually called pineapple mint; a good decorative garden plant retaining its attractive foliage throughout the summer. Ginger mint or scotch mint is another attractively leaved plant, particularly in the variegated form with golden variegation of the pointed leaves and its crisp even appearance and height makes a great herb border.

Usage: Most mints can be used for culinary purposes – one of the biggest – Bowles’s mint – has a reputation as a gourmet’s mint. It is a vigorous grower, easily attaining 1.5 m (5 ft), it’s broad leaves are covered with light coloured down. Peppermint is widely used in culinary and medical applications; there are two varieties (Black and white) which grow to about 1 m (3% ft), the former with black/purple stems – both produce a sharp crisp oil. In the kitchen peppermint can be used to flavour fruit cups, sweets and puddings. tea is made from fresh or dried leaves.

A range of fragrance is provided by the same oil; the small chemical variations between one species and another are affected by season, soil and weather. Mint may be variously described as peppery, lemon flavoured or ginger flavoured.

History: Spearmint, the classic ingredient in Mint Juleps, was recorded as growing in Plymouth, Mass. in the early 1600′s by Elder William Brewster. It appears in Josselyn’s seed list but is absent from the Winthrop seed order placed in 1631. It was available locally and did not need to be imported.

Cultivation: All mints are vigorous growers given the right growing conditions. Most can be picked year round except in areas experiencing heavy frost or snow.

Mint is propagated by planting pieces of the rooted stem — about 5 cms (2 ins) deep in moist loamy soil, at almost any time during the growing season. Apple mint, sometimes called dryland mint in America, will tolerate less moist soil but all mints like sunlight. The plants need to be confined to their allotted space by enclosing their growing space with bricks, tiles or thick plastic strips.

Container growing requires regular watering unless the containers are sunk into the ground. All mints can be grown indoors but have a tendency to becoming leggy when grown like this. The exception is apple mint which can be a very attractive container plant.

A mint bed should be remade and relocated every three or four years to prevent mint rust disease.

Crowns of mint plants can be boxed or potted up in winter and taken to a warm greenhouse to force strong fresh shoots within three to four weeks.

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Herb Garden Plants – Marjoram

September 27, 2009 |

Author peter

Origanum onites (Labiatae)

Appearance: Marjoram is a bushy plant reaching some 60 cms (2 ft) in height. Marjorams have a pleasant and distinct aroma. Pot marjoram is somewhat stronger and it is one of the most popular of the cultivated herbs, flourishing in temperate climes. Flowers are pink and white in summer.

Usage: Flowers and leaves can be used for potpourris. A favourite culinary herb with many uses in stews, soups and stuffings.

History: Many people get confused about marjoram. Before the Second World war common marjoram (O. vulgara), a red—stemmed perennial which spreads by means of small rhizomes was dubbed wild marjoram in most American cookbooks. Modern cookbooks refer to it as Oregano. To compound this confusion, some Southern states refer to an unrelated plant as marjoram. Look at the picture to be sure.

Sweet or marjoram is a native of North Africa. It likes temperate climates: in Summer it has purple/blue flowers mixed in with leaves ballooning at the stem tips. The the untidy knotted appearance gives it the nickname of knotted marjoram. Widely regarded as the best flavour for cooking.

Cultivation: Pot or wild marjoram grows well from seed sown in spring, summer cuttings or root division in autumn (fall). Sweet marjoram needs to be treated as a half hardy annual.
All kinds of marjoram can be started by sowing indoors or in cold frames early in spring, and are ready to transfer when the thermometer reads around 10deg C. or 50deg F.

Harvesting: Pick straight off the stems. All the marjorams dry well for winter use.

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Herb Garden Plants – Lemon Balm – Heaven S(c)ent

September 27, 2009 |

Author peter

Melissa officinalis (Labiatae)

Appearance: Grows into a dense round bush around 60-90 Cm’s (2-3 ft) tall and broad. Temperate regions increase growth sizes by about 20 percent. Leaves may be variegated with distinct yellow patterns. There are several types of these herb garden plants.

Usage: Lemon balm dries well and all types are used in potpourri recipes. Use lemon balm as a substitute for lemon juice in jam-making. Dried and crushed, leaves may be added into stuffing for meat and poultry.Flower tips and fresh leaves are floated on punches, wine and fruity cups.

History: Lemon balm as herb garden plants were primarily grown for their aromatic lemon-scented leaves. The clean pervasive fragrance led to cultivation for use a popular strewing herb. Balm was a principal ingredient of eau descarmes – a distillation invented by Carmelite monks as the forerunner of eau de cologne – in seventeenth—century Paris.

Cultivation: Seed is slow to germinate but quite easy to grow. The very fine seeds barely require covering. Impatient growers can take cuttings from established herb garden plants in late spring; plant these when established in warm areas or wait until the following spring.

Moist soil and good sun promotes lemon balm’s essential oil eradicating the slightly musty nuances that dry seasons or light, dry soils produce. It is particularly healthy, both in appearance and aromatic qualities, in well set up containers. Always remember to cut back close to the soil level in the autumn (fall) to ensure fresh growth and good fragrance later.

Lemon balm likes temperate regions without excessive humidity and thrives after a cold winter.

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Herb Garden Plants – Fennel

September 27, 2009 |

Author peter

Foeniculum vulgare (Umbelliferae)

Appearance: These tall graceful herb garden plants have fine foliage which can be used fresh throughout summer. The thick and shiny primary stem reaches about 1.5 m (5 ft) with featherlike soft fine foliage topped by delicate yellow flowers blooming in midsummer.

Usage: Fennel is a popular and very traditional seasoning for fatty meats. In small quantities it may be used as an addition to lamb or poultry. It greatly enhances the taste of fish, particularly oily fish. Seed is used in bread dough. Use steeped in oil or yoghurt to make a salad or vegetable dressing. Fennel bulbs are delicious.

History: These herb garden plants have been grown and used in northern Europe and the mediterranean region since Roman times. Fennel was tranported to the New World as a digestive remedy by settlers. (Seeds) Fennel seeds provide an anise—flavoured condiment stifles appetite and were used in Europe during religous fasting. Puritan communities in the USA took seeds of fennel and dill into church to chew during long services. Hence the expression “meeting seeds”. ln the Middle Ages it was placed into keyholes to stop the migration of evil spirits. The Romans employed fennel as a specific for various and regarded it as an agent of power and safe travelling.

Cultivation: Fennel is a tall plant suitable for the back of the herb border. Seed should be sown in late spring. To maintain Sow a few seeds in succession with about a 10-day interval between sowings. Cultivate as an annual if desired, but the established roots produce hardy plants that easily survive winter. Divide established roots from established herb garden plants in the fall (autumn) after seed has been harvested.

Harvesting: Fennel is sap rich and does not dry easily. Collect seed heads immediately you observe a color change. Hang them up in a dry, well ventilated environment out of the sun. Place a large tray or towel/paper/cloth underneath to collect the seeds easily.

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Herb garden Plants – Dill

September 27, 2009 |

Author peter

Anethum graveolens (Umbelliferae)

Appearance: Most herb garden information texts describe dill as having plumes of finely cut blue—green leaves and lemon yellow flowers with flattish heads in mid summer. Although this varies slightly from plant to plant, this is an accurate enough description for dill as a whole. It grows to about 90 cms (3 ft) in height.

Usage: Leaves and seeds both contain a mild sedative, although the flavours are dissimilar. Dill water was a remedy for squalling babies 100 years ago and dill is the sweet—tasting ingredient in gripe water. Its primary culinary use is as an addition to pickled cucumbers and gherkins – known in America as dill pickles. Dill vinegar is another popular condiment, made by macerating half a cup of dill seed in a quart of malt vinegar for three or four hours, then straining off the liquid and bottling. In central and eastern Europe chopped dill leaves are often used to garnish a dish of boiled potatoes or soured cream sauces, lending them a flavour which is nearer to parsley or anise than the sourness of the dill seed.

History: A native of the Mediterranean countries and Russia.

Cultivation: The hollow stalks become top heavy in bloom and may be knocked over by strong wind, making it best to find a sheltered spot for dill cultivation. Sow seeds in a sunny spot, thin seedlings out to 20 cms (8 ins) apart. Grow in place if possible as dill will often bolt into flower prematurely when transplanted. Sow in Spring when the ground warms up and follow with staggered sowings fortnightly throughout the summer to ensure a regular supply of fresh leaves. Where winters are very mild seed can be sown in the autumn (fall) to overwinter and provide a good early crop the following spring. Don’t sow near fennel – the two plants tend to cross-pollinate and the subsequent seed is loses flavour. The wispy foliage may be cut about 6 to 7 weeks after sowing and the seed collected when fully ripe.

Harvesting: For the richest flavour harvest the leaves just before the plant flowers. Small sprigs wrapped in foil and sealed
will keep for several weeks in the freezer. Alternatively, chop the leaves, add a little water and freeze in ice cubes.

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Herb Garden Plants – Coriander/Silantro/Dhania

September 27, 2009 |

Author peter

Coriandrum sativum (Umbelliferae)

Appearance: The entire plant makes a decorative addition to the herb border – it may also be cultivated in pots quite successfully – and will reach a height of 45 cms (1.5 ft). The lower leaves are fan-like (similar to flat-leafed parsley), upper leaves are filigreed and the tiny flowers in high summer are a pinkish mauve.

Description: Coriander has developed into 2 distinct categories – the seeds and the leaves. Despite the seeds being cultivated and used for over 3000 years, the leaves were virtually unknown as a culinary entity up until the late 20th century, coriander leaves are now reputed to be in the top 5 most popular herbs worldwide. Once seldom listed in herb garden information brochures, fresh coriander has come into it’s own at last.

Known variously as silantro, coriander and dhania – depending on your country of residence – the leaf version of coriander has taken the world by storm. Before the seed ripens the entire plant can be distinctly odorous, but on maturity the rich aroma develops.

Usage: For the best flavour, seed should be freshly ground before use. In Indian cooking the seed is roasted before being ground for use and the leaves are used either in the curry or as a garnish – or even both. Seeds are often added to a potpourri mix.

History: The rounded beige seeds of coriander are best known as a flavouring for pickles and curries in both Europe and America. But in India and the Far East green coriander — or the fresh foliage — accounts for the distinctive curry flavours. This foliage version is happily becoming a must have item in western supermarkets.

A native of southern Europe and the Middle East, coriander used to be a popular herb in England up to Tudor times. The early settlers in America included coriander seed among the beloved items they took to the New World, as did the Spaniards in Mexico. Today, coriander enjoys a wide popularity. However, among certain groups it still has mythical associations — the Chinese believe it to be endowed with the power of immortality and Jews include it in the bitter herbs prepared for the Feast of Passover.

Cultivation: Coriander grows best in a dry atmosphere — in fact it is difficult to grow in damp or humid areas, and needs a good dry summer at the very least if a reasonable crop is to be obtained. Choose a sunny place and sow seed in situ once all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, sow into decorative containers and continue to cultivate as a container plant on an apartment balcony, sunny patio or yard. The stems are weak – either add a stake or give it a companion to lean against. Coriander makes a good Winter crop, depending on local climate. Where I live, a dry warm Winter gives good results and we indulge in many hot curries with coriander garnishing.

Harvesting: Sprigs can be frozen or preserved in salt and oil; fresh leaf coriander does not dry successfully. The best flavour is obtained by using leaves soon after picking.

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Greek Lamb Kleftiko or Slow Roast Lamb Recipe

September 27, 2009 |

Author peter

Greek Lamb Kleftiko or Slow Roast Lamb Recipe

The Greek Lamb Kleftiko or Slow Roast Lamb, roughly translated, means stolen meat or stolen lamb. It depends which of your Greek friends you ask. The legends say that a thief would sneak onto a remote Greek hillside and steal a lamb. He would cook the meat for many hours over coals in a hole sealed with mud to prevent steam escaping and alerting the shepherds.

Whatever the legends though, let me say that this is down and dirty soul food with a large comfort food factor thrown in. Only the best of friends ever get this as a special treat. Get it right and you’ll get accolades. Get it wrong and it will still taste great. Time is the secret ingredient; Rosemary is the essential ingredient.

One of the best modern methods is to put your lamb chunks and other ingredients into an oven double baster lined with enough tinfoil to wrap the ingredients in a pouch. Place another tinfoil sheet on top overlapping the lip of the bottom section and put the top cover in place, creating a good seal between top and bottom. (See illustration below)

Preparation time : 20 minutes

Cooking time: 4 to 6 hours or until meat falls off the bone. Time depends on your cooking method and effectiveness of your lid seal.

Serves – bone-in: About 300 to 400 gm to a serving i.e. 2 kg’s will feed 5 to 7 people.

Serves – deboned: About 200 to 300 gm to a serving i.e. 2 kg’s will feed 7 to 10 people.

(I have cooked bone-in kleftiko for 6 farmers who flattened half a lamb. [8 kgs of meat] So overcater)

Ingredients: [For every 2 kg of meat.]

Either 1 boned shoulder of lamb (about 2kg)

Or a bone-in lamb hindquarter cut into neat fist sized chunks by your butcher. See above for weight needed.

Or a bone-in lamb forequarter cut into neat fist sized chunks by your butcher. See above for weight needed.

150ml extra virgin olive oil

3 large cloves garlic, cut into slivers

4 tbsp roughly chopped rosemary

Juice of 1 large lemon

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 160 degrees C. (340 F)

2. Heat 50ml of the oil in a large, heavy frying pan over a medium heat. Add the lamb and brown on all sides. Remove from the pan and drain on a paper towel.

3. use a wooden skewer or similar to make holes in the lamb. Insert the garlic slivers into the holes.

Place meat inside tinfoil, add the herbs, lemon juice and the remaining olive oil and season. Wrap tightly in the tinfoil. Place overlapping foil over this and fit lid.

5. Place in oven and cook for 4 to 6 hours – remember that it is called slow lamb. Remove from the oven shortly before serving. Open foil and pierce bottom of foil cover to start draining.

6. Serve the chunky portions whole and spoon remaining juice over portions – they should almost fall apart at this stage. Serve with your veggies of choice.

Please let me know how you enjoyed this greek kleftiko aka slow roast lamb recipe.

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